Lourdes, a week in church? Not quite.

Elliot Hartley reflects on an exhausting week of early mornings and late nights.

Now I know that on first impressions a trip to Lourdes might not be everyone’s cup of tea, or ‘tasse de thé’. The idea of traipsing around churches in the hot summer heat isn’t exactly an easy sell for a group of teenagers, but hang in there, the story gets better.

Firstly, a slight disclaimer: Lourdes has always been a special place for me. My parents met in Lourdes, and I’ve been going on pilgrimage there since I was a child with the UK’s Catholic Association. I’ve spent many hours sipping Orangina in the Bronx café and paddling in the river Gave, as well as generally getting in people’s way, while those around me are busy helping others. This summer everything changed. No more hanging around – I was to work as a volunteer, or ‘Brancardier’.

The Accueil San Frai is one of the many hospitals in Lourdes. Working there is a daunting task, especially for someone that has little clue what they’re supposed to be doing. Thankfully, I wasn’t alone. Several friends from school joined me. Each came for their own reasons — some spiritual, others with no religious intent at all; some to find out what helping in the hospitals was all about, and a few looking for a party.

At a Mass early in the week, we heard of the need to balance both ‘Prayer and Play’. A priest suggested that if you come just for a party and close yourself off to Lourdes’ spiritual significance, you’ll have fun, but won’t experience the profound connection many others find. On the other hand, if you focus solely on prayer, you’ll miss out on the full richness of the experience. To truly embrace Lourdes, you have to throw yourself into all aspects of it.

Take the hospital work, for instance. By volunteering to help the Assisted Pilgrims, I opened myself up to unexpected opportunities. I went into my shifts with low expectations, feeling in awe of the doctors and nurses who work tirelessly to serve others. During my time there, I helped a woman named Maureen, who had been unable to walk for two years, take her first steps again. It was an incredibly powerful experience.

Another memorable moment was spending time with Mary, a woman showing early signs of dementia. We talked for over an hour about her life, her family, and her longing for someone to simply listen. The conversation had a profound impact on me, and highlighted how important a trip to Lourdes can be, for the assisted pilgrims as well as the helpers.

On a separate note, Lourdes is probably the only place where you can finish a hospital shift, dash to a bar still in uniform, and belt out Don McLean’s ‘American Pie’ at the top of your lungs. At first, I thought the midnight curfew was overly strict — we’re young adults, after all! But by midweek, I was grateful for any extra sleep. Lesson learned: nap whenever you can.

Lourdes also presents unexpected opportunities if you stay open-minded. After a few conversations (and the offer of one, or two beers), my friend Sebastian, an avid organist, managed to get access to play the organ in the Underground Basilica, the largest underground church in Lourdes capable of hosting 25,000 people.

One day, while rolling (Lourdes’ slang for pushing a wheelchair) two pilgrims, Frances and Anne, we visited the Medical Bureau of Lourdes, where I met Sandro De Franciscis, the president of the International Medical Association of Lourdes. After chatting, he asked about my career aspirations, and I mentioned journalism. His response? “Why don’t you write an article about Lourdes?” These words you’re reading now came from that very proposal!

So, my advice to anyone considering Lourdes? Go for it. Whether you're religious or not, you’ll meet some of the most welcoming people on the planet. It also seems to me that in Lourdes we see the church at its very best, doing what it should be doing, not putting people off, but quite the reverse: a place where everyone is welcome and simple acts of kindness are everywhere. Give as much of yourself as you can, and I promise you'll leave with a life-changing experience capable of shaking off any late nights.